202507 Italian and Croatia Adventure

The Australian Winter is one we seek to escape each year. Either hitch the van and head north or book a flight someplace for hiking, cycling or both.

This year we chose Italy simply because:

a. we had booked ourselves onto the Bike Odyssey Venetians cycling trip in October; and

b. we found a few self-guided rides we liked in Italy; and

c. researched a town called "Bolzano" touted as the "cycling capital of Italy";

Our Italy leg consists of landing in Milan, train to Bolzano, cycle to Venice, train back to Lake Garda, cycle around Lake Garda, ferry back to Nago Torbole, train to Venice.

And then our Bike Odyssey Venetians cycling adventure begins with a ferry ride across to Piran and then daily hops all the way down to Dubrovnik. Theresa and I then stay in Dubrovnik for another 2 weeks before heading home.

Contents

On the way and Milan

Bolzano

Bolzano and the Mountains

Bolzano Cycling

Cycling Bolzano to Venice

Day1: to Trento

Day2: to Desenzano

Day 3: to Verona

Day 4: to Vicenza

Day5: to Padua

Day 6: to Venice

Back to Desenzano

Cycling around Lake Garda

Nago-Torbole

Venetians

Dubrovnik

Retrace our steps to Brisbane

We decided to try QATAR airways based on recommendations from friends and also the Brisbane-Doha-Milan journey was easier than offered by SAL.

The QATAR airways experience was sensational. Superb service at BNE, the Q-suites fabulous, spacious lounges, interesting shopping experience in Doha. Highly recommended.

We had three days in Milan to recover from our trip. Stayed at Hotel Glam directly across from the "stationaze" as we needed to use the train for our next leg. Bike bags and roller cases need special attention when determining how to transit.

I booked the high speed train from Milan to Bolzano with a change in Verona. I researched whether they could take bicycles and as long as in bike bags "no problemo", seemed "perfecto". NOT SO.

There is no luggage compartment of any size despite showing on the train. Fortunately the conductor found us two spare seats into which to place the bikes. But we would need to move them if others had booked and hopped on the train.

Otherwise we could not travel as the wheelchair section was full.

A "little stressful". The conductor provided some great advice. Take the "regionale" service as they have bike carriages with lots of space. So cancelled our high speed train bookings. And rebooked "regionale". Much slower. Lots of space. And about 25% of the price!!!!

We met lots of other "bikers" on the train. Cyclists are the same the world over. One point with Italian trains if you're taking bicycles. Take the "Regionale" trains as they have bike carriages, lots of space. The high speed trains do NOT HAVE SPACE.

Highlights of Bolzano:

• our AirBnB was directly across the river from the town with a great view from the 7th floor. Fortunately the lift was big enough to accomodate the bikes.

• the open air fresh food markets except on a Sunday

• the plethora of restaurants

• the cycling tracks, hundreds and hundreds of kilometres

• the respect motorists show to cyclists

• the Italians, so friendly, wonderful people

• our use of very basic Italian taken graciously and giving us advice on pronunciation and words. Loving it.

• the wine. the food.

• able to cook Italian recipes at our AirBnB

A man from another era

Over 5300 years ago, Ötzi was crossing Tisenjoch/Giogo di Tisa in the Schnalstal/Val Senales Valley, South Tyrol, where he was murdered and preserved naturally in the ice.

He is therefore older than the Egyptian pyramids and Stonehenge and the result of a series of highly improbable coincidences. Ötzi lived during the Copper Age, a period of the late Neolithic. He was still using stone tools but owned an innovative and very valuable copper axe. The skill of extracting and processing metal had recently arrived in Europe from Asia Minor. The advent of copper marked the beginning of the Bronze Age.

And yes, we got some work done too. The apartment had high speed internet. We allocated work days as needed. We are so blessed. Australia is 8 hours ahead so easy to schedule tele-conferences as needed.

Loved Bolzano.

Bolzano is a unique city in northern Italy, serving as the capital of the autonomous province of South Tyrol. Located in a valley at the foot of the Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage site, it's often referred to as the "Gateway to the Dolomites." 🏞️

Culture and History

Bolzano is a fascinating "melting pot" of Italian and German/Austrian cultures. This dual identity is a result of its history: the region was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until after World War I, when it was annexed by Italy. This blend is evident in its bilingual signage, architecture, and, most notably, its cuisine, which combines Mediterranean flavors with Tyrolean traditions like sausages, sauerkraut, and strudel. 🥨

The city's historic center is characterized by a mix of Italian and German architectural styles. Key streets like Via dei Portici (Laubengasse) are lined with arcaded shops that have been the commercial heart of the city since the Middle Ages.

Key Sights

• South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology: The city's most famous attraction is home to Ötzi the Iceman, a remarkably preserved 5,300-year-old mummy found in a nearby glacier.

• Piazza Walther: The main square of the city, dominated by the Gothic Bolzano Cathedral and a statue of the German medieval poet, Walther von der Vogelweide. The square is a popular gathering place and hosts the city's famous Christmas market.

• Roncolo Castle (Castel Roncolo): Situated on a rocky outcrop, this medieval castle is renowned for its extensive and well-preserved secular frescoes from the Middle Ages.

• Messner Mountain Museum Firmian: A part of a network of six museums dedicated to mountains, this museum is located in the impressive Buonconsiglio Castle.

Economy and Modern Life

Bolzano is one of Italy's wealthiest and most prosperous cities. Its economy is based on tourism, agriculture (especially wine production), and a growing number of service and high-tech industries. The city is known as the "City of Wines" due to its rich viticulture, with local varieties like Lagrein and Santa Maddalena being particularly celebrated.

We braved driving in Italy.

They are actually very respectful drivers. Maybe it's just Rome where they are crazy! Decided to head up into the mountains and used Google AI to recommend a 1 day road trip. Bolzano - Passo Costalunga - Pordoi Pass (lunch at the top) then retraced our steps to Lake Carezza.

The number of cyclists heading up into the passes was incredible. Motor vehicles so patient and giving lots of room.

There are literally dozens of cycling routes from Bolzano. A myriad of cycling paths. Road cycling, MTB, gravel, touring, Bolzano has everything a cyclist desires. Motorists amazingly respectful of cyclists. A pleasure to share the roads.

BUT one ride in particular just captivated Theresa and I. It was a ride on a cycleway for the majority and then back roads through vineyards. Consistent climbing there and back. Spectacular views and a great training ride for us both in preparation for our next weeks of cycling and then Venetians.

More to come. The reverse ride.

A collage of Bolzano cycling adventures.

We spent 3 weeks in Bolzano. Departed on our self-guided tour from Bolzano to Venice on the 21st August. Organised by Euro-Bike.

We found Euro-Bike via an internet search and suited us superbly. "Comfort hotels", GPX provided, bike support if needed, bags transferred from place to place and very helpful team.

First stop, Trento.

Trento is the capital of the autonomous province of Trentino in Northern Italy. Situated in an Alpine valley, the city is surrounded by majestic mountains, including the Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage site, which makes it a gateway for outdoor enthusiasts who enjoy hiking, skiing, and other alpine activities. 🏔️

History and Culture

Trento has a rich and complex history. Originally a Celtic and then Roman settlement known as Tridentum, it later became the seat of a powerful prince-bishopric. Its most famous historical event was hosting the Council of Trent from 1545 to 1563, a key part of the Catholic Counter-Reformation. This historical significance is reflected in the city's architecture. The city's charming historic center is filled with Renaissance-era palaces decorated with beautiful frescoes, earning Trento the nickname "The Painted City."

Modern Life and Economy

Today, Trento is a prosperous and vibrant city with a high quality of life. It’s known for its blend of Italian warmth and Austrian-Germanic influence, which is evident in its culture, cuisine, and even its architecture. The city's economy is strong, with industries like farming, wine production, and high-tech sectors contributing to its prosperity. The University of Trento is also a major presence, adding a lively, academic atmosphere to the city.

Key Sights

• Piazza Duomo: The heart of the city, dominated by the Fountain of Neptune and the Romanesque Trento Cathedral.

• Buonconsiglio Castle: A massive and historically significant castle that was once the residence of the prince-bishops. It now houses several museums.

• MUSE: A modern and innovative science museum designed by renowned architect Renzo Piano.

• Via Belenzani and Via Manci: Streets lined with stunning frescoed buildings.

3 weeks in Bolzano. No rain. First day cycling to Trento, pouring rain!!!! LOL. That said we were well prepared based on our cycling experience in Holland.

A very good first day. A little rain to get us focused. Then sunshine from about 30km out.

Trento?. Lovely town. Brilliant hotel: Hotel Academia, very helpful front desk, and great recommendation for a locals place to enjoy lunch!!!

No rain. And a brilliant ride from Trento, to Nago-Torbole to Riva. Then a ferry trip down Lake Garda to Desenzano.

The ferry trip was around 5 hours, we could have cycled there in less time! But we got to see lots of towns on the way with the "milk run".

Departing Trento early morning, the Piazza is empty!!! And look at that blue sky.

Fabulous ride. And some big climbs and descent into Desenzano.

Arrived late into Desenzano. So quick trip to a Japanese restaurant. A few cleansing drinks at the Hotel. Then off early the next morning.

We return to Desenzano for a few days after Venice, so lots of time to explore.

Here's the summary of Desenzano.

Desenzano del Garda, often simply called Desenzano, is the largest town on the southwestern shore of Lake Garda in northern Italy. Known for its lively atmosphere, rich history, and scenic location, it's a popular destination for both Italian and international tourists.

Key Characteristics

• Vibrant Atmosphere: Unlike some of the quieter towns on Lake Garda, Desenzano is a bustling hub with a lively nightlife, trendy bars, and a wide array of restaurants and shops. Its main squares, Piazza Malvezzi and Piazza Matteotti, are central points of activity.

• Strategic Location: Desenzano is an excellent base for exploring the region. It's well-connected by train to major cities like Milan and Verona, and its large port offers a wide network of ferries to other towns around the lake, including the nearby and famous Sirmione.

• Historic Charm: The town combines modern amenities with a beautiful historic core. Its picturesque old port, known as Porto Vecchio, features colorful buildings and a charming Venetian bridge. Above the town center, a medieval castle offers panoramic views of the lake.

Main Attractions and Things to Do

• Castello di Desenzano: The castle, perched on a hill, dates back to the 10th century. While only a part of the original structure remains, its walls and towers provide some of the best panoramic views of Lake Garda and the surrounding landscape.

• Roman Villa of Desenzano: This archaeological site is a testament to the town's ancient past as a luxury resort for wealthy Romans. Visitors can explore the well-preserved ruins and admire the stunning, colorful mosaic floors.

• Old Port (Porto Vecchio): A picturesque and photogenic spot, this old harbor is perfect for a leisurely stroll. It's lined with cafes and restaurants, making it a great place to sit, enjoy an aperitivo, and watch the boats.

• Archaeological Museum: The "Giovanni Rambotti" museum houses a collection of prehistoric artifacts, including the world's oldest preserved wooden plow, providing insight into the area's history.

• Lakeside Promenade: Desenzano has a long, beautiful promenade that is ideal for walking, cycling, or simply enjoying the views. There are also several beaches, such as Desenzanino Beach, for swimming and relaxing.

• Shopping: The town's central streets, particularly Via Roma, are lined with a great selection of boutiques, designer shops, and local artisan stores.

• Boating and Water Sports: With its prominent location on the lake, Desenzano is a hub for boat trips, from public ferries to private tours and rentals. You can also engage in water sports like stand-up paddleboarding and sailing.

• Nightlife: Desenzano is considered the "young heart" of the southern Garda region, with numerous bars and nightclubs that draw a lively crowd, especially in the summer.

  
  

Desenzano del Garda is a well-rounded destination that offers a mix of historical sights, beautiful lakeside scenery, and a vibrant social scene, making it a popular choice for many types of travelers.

And so we commence our travel East. East towards Venice. Undulating hills. With a couple of long climbs and a big spike at the end. But fabulous cycling through country roads, gravel paths along canals, vineyards and a couple of great coffee stops.

Thank heavens we have Garmin. And Google Maps. There were lots of roadworks. Routes closed. Directions and signing not clear. But Theresa and I simply stopped and figured it out.

A German couple arrived 5-6 hours into Verona after we did having commenced around the same time. Totally stuffed and not happy!!! Then went to Opera.

Meanwhile Theresa and I enjoyed a very long and wonderful lunch!!!

Not to break with my research, here's the overview of Verona.

VERY PHARKIN EXPENSIVE TOWN AS THERE IS A LOUIS VOUTTON STORE HERE. DO NOT VISIT!!!!

[Okay, my fault. I did encourage Theresa to "invest" albeit took some effort to get them to let us into the store in our wandering attire!!!]

Verona is a captivating city in Northern Italy, located in the Veneto region, and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its rich history, architecture, and cultural heritage.

Here is an overview:

Key Characteristics

• Location: Situated in the Veneto region, almost halfway between Venice and Milan, and near the eastern side of Lake Garda. The Adige River wraps around its historic center.

  
  

• History: The city has an uninterrupted 2,000-year history, starting as a Roman municipium. It flourished under the Scaliger family in the Middle Ages and later under the Venetian Republic, resulting in a mix of Roman, Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance architecture.

  
  

• UNESCO Status: It was declared a World Heritage Site for its exceptional urban structure and architecture, which reflects its progressive development as a fortified town.

  
  

Major Attractions and Fame

• Roman Heritage: Verona boasts some of the finest Roman ruins in Northern Italy.

  
  

  • Arena di Verona: A colossal, remarkably well-preserved 1st-century Roman amphitheater, the third largest of its kind. It is still actively used today, hosting a world-famous annual Opera Festival and concerts during the summer.

    
    

  • Ponte Pietra: An ancient Roman bridge across the Adige River.

    
    

• Shakespearean Romance: Verona is internationally known as the setting for William Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet.

  
  

  • Casa di Giulietta (Juliet's House): A popular tourist spot featuring the famous balcony, which, despite the story being fictional, draws countless romantics.

    
    

• Medieval and Renaissance Landmarks:

  • Piazza delle Erbe: The vibrant main square, built on the site of the ancient Roman Forum, surrounded by frescoed buildings and historic monuments.

    
    

  • Piazza dei Signori (Piazza Dante): A more formal square surrounded by important medieval and Renaissance palaces, including the Loggia del Consiglio.¹⁶

    
    

  • Castelvecchio: A impressive medieval castle and fortress built by the Scaliger family, now housing the city's Civic Museum. Its connected Ponte Scaligero is also a famous landmark.

    
    

  • Arche Scaligere (Scaliger Tombs): Elaborate Gothic funerary monuments for the Scaliger dynasty.

    
    

Culture and Cuisine

• Opera: The summer opera season in the Arena is a major cultural event.

  
  

• Wine: The area is famous for its regional wines, including Amarone della Valpolicella, Valpolicella, and Soave.

  
  

• Food: Local gastronomy includes dishes like risotto and the famous Christmas sweet bread, Pandoro.

  
  

Verona is a beautiful and compact city, easy to explore on foot, and offers a perfect blend of history, culture, and Italian romance.

LV handbag secured. And off we go some shekels poorer to Vicenza. Another fabulous ride. Largely flat. And a lot of gravel paths along canals and rivers. Slowed us down. But a great day cycling.

You can see from the Strava we had to make some detours. Again roads closed. So relied on our Google maps to help us reroute.

LOVED VICENZA. Fewer tourists. And spectacular.

Here's our research.

Vicenza is an elegant and dynamic city in the Veneto region of Northern Italy, best known as the "City of Palladio." Its cultural and architectural heritage, primarily centered on the works of the renowned Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio, has earned it a designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Key Characteristics

• Location: Situated in the Veneto region, about halfway between Verona and Venice, at the base of the Monti Berici hills and straddling the Bacchiglione River.

  
  

• The City of Palladio: Vicenza's identity is inextricably linked to Palladio, who lived and worked here in the 16th century. His groundbreaking designs established the Palladian style, which profoundly influenced architecture across Europe and North America (notably inspiring buildings like the U.S. White House).

  
  

• UNESCO World Heritage Site: The historic city center and the scattered Palladian Villas of the Veneto were jointly inscribed by UNESCO in 1994, recognizing their outstanding universal value as masterpieces of Renaissance architecture.

  
  

• Economy: Beyond its historical and cultural role, Vicenza is one of Italy's wealthiest cities and a major industrial center, particularly renowned as the Italian capital for gold and jewelry production.

  
  

Main Architectural Masterpieces

The city's central area, particularly Piazza dei Signori, serves as an open-air museum of Palladio's work:

• Basilica Palladiana: The undisputed symbol of Vicenza. Palladio redesigned the medieval town hall with his revolutionary marble loggias, featuring the architectural motif known as the "Palladian window" or serliana. It hosts exhibitions and offers stunning rooftop views.

  
  

• Teatro Olimpico: Palladio's last work, completed by his student Vincenzo Scamozzi. It is the oldest surviving indoor Renaissance theater in the world. Its permanent wooden stage set, designed with a masterful optical illusion of streets receding into the distance, is an absolute masterpiece.

  
  

• Palazzo Chiericati: A grand Palladian palace that now houses the city's main Civic Art Museum.

  
  

• Loggia del Capitaniato: Another striking Palladian palace on Piazza dei Signori, standing opposite the Basilica.

  
  

• Villa Capra "La Rotonda": Located just outside the city center, this iconic villa is Palladio's most famous and influential residential design, celebrated for its perfect symmetry and classical temple-like façade.

  
  

Other Notable Attractions

• Piazza dei Signori: The heart of the city's social life and former Roman forum, surrounded by Palladian palaces and the tall Torre Bissara clock tower.

  
  

• Monte Berico: A hill overlooking the city, home to the Santuario della Madonna di Monte Berico, a beautiful basilica that offers magnificent panoramic views of Vicenza.

  
  

• Villa Valmarana ai Nani: Famous for its stunning 18th-century frescoes by Giambattista and Giandomenico Tiepolo.

  
  

• Corso Andrea Palladio: The city's main street, lined with elegant palaces, boutiques, and shops.

  
  

In essence, Vicenza offers a quieter, yet intensely rich, artistic experience compared to its larger neighbors, providing a unique immersion into the foundational principles of Renaissance architecture.

Flat as a tack. But lovely scenery. Padua was a joy to visit. Basic accomodation just outside the town. Easy walking distance and not hotels in the old city. Just a a gorgous town.

Brought back memories for Theresa and also Thomas who had both visited.

And our research. I like adding these to remember what we have visited and maybe should have!!!!

Padua, known in Italian as Padova, is a historic and vibrant city in the Veneto region of Northern Italy. It is a major hub of art, culture, and science, largely defined by its ancient roots, prestigious university, and world-changing artistic masterpieces.

Here is an overview:

Key Characteristics

• Location: Situated in the Veneto region, west of Venice, on the Bacchiglione River. It serves as a major economic and communications center.

• Cultural Hub: Padua's historic center, known for its intricate network of arcaded streets and numerous grand piazzas, holds two separate UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

• University City: Home to the University of Padua, founded in 1222, the second-oldest university in Italy. Its presence gives the city a lively, intellectual, and youthful atmosphere. Famous alumni and professors include Galileo Galilei and Nicolaus Copernicus.

• Artistic Significance: The city is a crucial landmark in the history of art, particularly for its contribution to the Proto-Renaissance.

Major Attractions and Fame

1. Giotto's Masterpiece (UNESCO World Heritage)

• Scrovegni Chapel (Cappella degli Scrovegni): Padua's most famous treasure. The entire interior is covered floor-to-ceiling with a groundbreaking fresco cycle by Giotto (c. 1303–1305). These vivid, emotionally expressive frescoes, depicting the lives of the Virgin Mary and Christ, are considered a seminal work that ushered in the Renaissance.

  • Note: Visits are limited and require mandatory advance booking.

• The Scrovegni Chapel is part of the larger Padua's 14th-Century Fresco Cycles UNESCO site, which includes other important painted buildings in the city.

2. Religious and Pilgrimage Center

• Basilica of Saint Anthony of Padua (Il Santo): One of the most revered and important pilgrimage sites in the Catholic world, dedicated to Saint Anthony. The magnificent basilica features a unique blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Byzantine styles, and houses the Saint's tomb and relics. Outside stands Donatello's powerful bronze Equestrian Statue of Gattamelata.

3. Academic and Scientific Legacy (UNESCO World Heritage)

• Palazzo del Bo (University of Padua): The historic heart of the university, where you can take a guided tour to see:

  • The Anatomical Theatre, the first permanent anatomical theatre in the world (1594).

  • The Aula Magna, where Galileo Galilei lectured.

• Orto Botanico di Padova (Botanical Garden): The world's oldest academic botanical garden still in its original location, established in 1545. It is a separate UNESCO World Heritage Site, noted for its scientific importance and historical design.

4. Historic Piazzas and Markets

• Prato della Valle: One of the largest public squares in Europe. This massive elliptical piazza is surrounded by a canal lined with 78 statues of famous Paduans, making it a spectacular sight and a central gathering spot.

• Palazzo della Ragione: Located between the market squares Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza dei Frutti, this massive medieval town hall features a huge, unsupported roof and a colossal frescoed hall (Il Salone).

• Piazza dei Signori: A bustling square featuring an impressive Astronomical Clock from the 14th century.

Cuisine

Padua's cuisine is distinctly Veneto, with local specialties including Bigoli in salsa (thick pasta with anchovy sauce) and Baccalà alla Vicentina (creamy codfish). The historic Caffè Pedrocchi is also a famous landmark for coffee and aperitifs.

A very flat ride into Venice Mestre. Gravel bike paths and country roads. Then city laneways and bikeways. Our hotel is sensational. An easy bus ride into Venice. Both Theresa and I have been to Venice before so we sought out the places we had not visited.

Lots of canals and backstreets. Lots of dead ends!!!

We did very much enjoy our first Gondola ride. Through the canals and then out to the Grand Canal. Sipped champagne on the main square listening to a live band (E14each!!! for the music). Lots of photos.

And then headed to Murano. The island of glass blowing factories. Visited a couple and found one that was simply fabulous. Met "Marko" who invited us to a private gallery. Wonderful pieces, many of which are now on their way back to OZ!!!

Here's our Venice research.

Venice is one of the world's most unique and famous cities, located in northeastern Italy and serving as the capital of the Veneto region.

Here is an overview of the "Floating City":

Unique Geography

• Location: Venice is built on a group of 118 small islands in the marshy Venetian Lagoon, situated along the Adriatic Sea coast between the mouths of the Po and Piave Rivers.

• Canals and Bridges: Instead of roads, the city's main transportation arteries are canals (the largest being the S-shaped Grand Canal), which are traversed by gondolas and water buses (vaporettos). The islands are connected by more than 400 bridges.

• Architecture: The city's magnificent architecture—a blend of Byzantine, Gothic, and Renaissance influences—appears to float on the water. The entire city and its lagoon are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Rich History

• Founding: Traditionally, Venice was founded in 421 AD by refugees fleeing barbarian invasions from the Italian mainland.

• Maritime Power: For over a millennium, Venice was the center of the Republic of Venice (often called "La Serenissima" or "The Most Serene Republic"). It became a major financial and maritime power from the 10th to the 18th century, controlling extensive trade routes between Europe and the East (including silk and spices).

• Decline: The Republic's independence ended in 1797 with Napoleon's conquest. It later became part of the Kingdom of Italy in 1866.

What Venice is Famous For

• The Canals and Gondolas: The ultimate romantic experience is a ride on a traditional black gondola along the canals.

• Piazza San Marco (St. Mark's Square): The city's main public square, described by Napoleon as "the most beautiful living room in Europe." It is home to:

  • St. Mark's Basilica: A stunning example of Italian-Byzantine architecture, famous for its golden mosaics.

  • Doge's Palace (Palazzo Ducale): The former seat of the Doge (ruler) and the Venetian government.

  • St. Mark's Campanile: The city's tall, iconic bell tower.

• Iconic Bridges: The Rialto Bridge (the oldest and most famous to cross the Grand Canal) and the Bridge of Sighs (connecting the Doge's Palace to the New Prisons).

• Carnival of Venice: Famous for its elaborate, traditional Venetian masks and celebrations held before Lent.

• Outlying Islands: Islands in the lagoon like Murano (famous for glassblowing) and Burano (known for its brightly colored houses and lacework).

In essence, Venice is a cultural and historical treasure, celebrated globally for its unique setting, architectural masterpieces, and timeless romantic allure.

Train tickets in hand we headed to the train station at Venice Mestre. We're now train travel experts in Italy. Booked Regional tickets. And know to look for the carriage with the bike symbol as it has dedicated storage.

Hopped on board to find suitcases in the bike storage area despite the sign saying bikes only. So we had to stand all the way back to Verona.

At Verona 4 Australians stood, collected their luggage and got off. Followed by much strong language from Theresa and I. Wankers!!!!

On the train from Verona to Desenzano we did use the bike storage. Only to receive immediate abuse from a cycling who boarded thinking these were suitcases. "Bicycleta" we advised. He apologised. Settled down. And commenced to sing to us all the way to Desenzano.

Very pleased to leave the train!!! And our singer behind.

And so our adventure begins to cycle around Lake Garda. Desenzano to Garda to Riva (2days) and then onto Sola. Fabulous cycling largely on cycleways with some gravel. And amazing descent on a main road, sadly I didn't video this, too focused on not going off the road!!!

Another EuroBike adventure. Their organisation is fabulous. Great hotels. Clear directions. Support if needed. GPX routes a little odd at times but we managed to find workarounds. Bags arrived into hotels in time. We like the self-guided cycling adventures as well as those guided.

I think the highlight was Salo. And the ride from Riva to Salo. Would love to repeat that downhill.

Time for a rest. 10 days in Torbole in an AirBnB directly across from the lake. A little out of town and definitely outside the tourist area which is largely Riva. Meant a lovely 200m walk through a quiet back street into the main area.

We discovered this "locals largely" wine bar on the way to and from lunch or dinner! And quickly became a favorite. Found two exceptional restaurants. Ristorante La Terraza was exceptional in all regards: food, wine, service. And Ristorante Benaco. Great for lunch.

The supermarket was up the street about 400m. And a smattering of interesting stores. There's a very good bicycle service place in town but we discovered that in our last couple of days.

We did meet a couple who hired up market Pinarello's in Nago-Torbole. At our favorite coffee shop (Cafe Bellavista).

Torbole was a great place for us to catch up on work. The wifi internet was fast and reliable. Our kitchen became the office!

And we were blessed with a secure garage where we could store and charge the bikes downstairs.

In short, a perfect stay.

Video of our favorite ride. Lovely ride along the river. Then climb to a gorgeous lake.

Based on our recent train experience we decided to "invest" in a transfer to Venice by transit van. A E500 price seemed reasonable. Until we got to Venice and discovered there is no tunnel to our island, only a ferry. Given the time delay our cost doubled!!! But we think worthwhile to have avoided the train dramas.

And of course our Torbole research:

Torbole sul Garda is a beautiful and dynamic village located on the northern shore of Lake Garda, in the Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol region of northern Italy. It's part of the municipality of Nago-Torbole, which also includes the villages of Nago and Tempesta.

Here is some key information about Torbole:

Key Characteristics & Attractions

• Watersports Paradise: Torbole is internationally famous for windsurfing and sailing. Thanks to the reliable, strong winds, the Ora (a south wind that blows from noon to evening) and the Pelér (a north wind that blows from night to late morning), the area has ideal conditions for water sports enthusiasts. Motorboat traffic is restricted, contributing to its suitability for wind sports.

  
  

• Stunning Scenery: The village is set dramatically at the foot of Monte Baldo and Monte Brione, with its houses arranged like an amphitheater around the small bay. The landscape transitions from Mediterranean (olive and lemon trees) along the lake to Alpine in the mountains.

  
  

• Outdoor Activities: Beyond watersports, the area is a haven for active holidays, including:

  • Hiking and Trekking: Notable trails include the Busatte - Tempesta path with its scenic stairways clinging to the cliffs, and routes up Monte Altissimo di Nago (part of Monte Baldo).

  • Mountain Biking: The region, known as Garda Trentino, offers numerous challenging and scenic biking trails.

  • Climbing (nearby in Arco).

    
    

• Historic Charm: Torbole was once a quiet fishing village and a stopping point for European travellers on the Atesina road. Key historical sights include:

  • The Casetta del Dazio (Old Customs House) at the picturesque small harbor, dating back to the 15th century.

  • The parish church of Sant'Andrea (St. Andrew), rebuilt in the Late Baroque style.

  • Casa Beust, which was a meeting place for artists.

    
    

• Goethe's Influence: The famous German writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe visited Torbole in 1786 during his "Italian Journey" and was captivated by its beauty, poeticly describing it as "The land where lemons bloom."

  
  

• Nearby Attractions: The village is close to other popular Lake Garda destinations like Riva del Garda and Arco, as well as natural wonders like the Marmitte dei Giganti (glacial potholes) and the ruins of Castel Penede in Nago, which offers fantastic views.

  
  

Torbole is an ideal destination for those who seek a mix of natural beauty, history, and thrilling outdoor sports.

A Bike Odyssey adventure commences. And catching up with Nicole and Peter, Kathy and Murray, Henrik and Chri. Plus meeting Isabel for the first time.

Our second Bike Odyssey adventure and we know what to expect.... A.wesome.

Here's the route map. Omitted Korcula to Dubrovnik as Google maps exceeded number of stops.

1. Piran

2. Motovun

3. Plomin

4. Mali Losinj

5. Zadar

6. Sibenik

7. Split

8. Hvar

9. Vela Luka

10. Korcula

11. Dubrovnik

We finally made our way to our Hotel in Venice, at great cost!!!! But a lovely hotel. We've got a full day in Venice before boarding a Ferry to Piran. Didn't take more photos of Venice. but did capture the Jewish quarter.

Piran was just gorgeous. I arose before dawn and captured incredible scenes with fabulous light. We enjoyed a few days here, and got to roam this remarkable town.

And some videos.

Plus our research.

Piran is a town located in Slovenia, on the Gulf of Piran on the Adriatic Sea, not in Croatia. It is one of the three major towns of Slovenian Istria and is considered one of the most beautiful towns on the Slovenian coast.

Key information about Piran:

• Location: Southwestern Slovenia, on the Adriatic coast. It is near the borders of Italy and Croatia.

  
  

• Character and Architecture: It is a medieval jewel, known for its well-preserved Venetian Gothic architecture. The town has narrow streets, compact houses, and its architecture reflects the centuries of Venetian influence (1283 to 1797).

  
  

• Bilingual: The municipality is officially bilingual, with both Slovene and Italian as official languages.

  
  

• History: Its history spans from Roman times, but was largely shaped by nearly five centuries of Venetian rule. It became part of independent Slovenia in 1991.

  
  

• Major Attractions and Sights:

  • Tartini Square: The main square, named after the famous Italian composer and violinist Giuseppe Tartini, who was born there. The square features a monument to him and is flanked by beautiful buildings like the Gothic-style Venetian House.

    
    

  • St. George's Parish Church: Located on a hilltop, it is the largest church in town and its bell tower (a smaller copy of the San Marco Campanile in Venice) can be climbed for spectacular views of the town and the Adriatic Sea.

    
    

  • Piran Town Walls: Parts of the old walls, dating back to different eras, are preserved and accessible for visitors, offering excellent panoramic views.

    
    

  • Maritime Museum "Sergej Mašera": Dedicated to the maritime history of the Slovenian coast.

    
    

  • Sečovlje Salt Pans: Located nearby, these salt pans were historically very important to the town's economy, and salt is still produced there using age-old methods. A Museum of Salt-Making is also located there.

Our next castle town. Great ride through country roads. A steep climb at the end to our fabulous accomodation. OYO dinner at our hotel trying local wines and a wicked sticky! Decided to rest up rather than tackle the morning ride with the rain. Then off to a Truffle degustation which was just fabulous. A really interesting visit.

And stocked up on truffle products in preparation for our extended stay in Dubrovnik.

Dinner was held up at the Castle. An easy climb and a very interesting castle town.

An "easy" 4% for 7km as we headed out, then a couple of pinches, and a wall of bitumen at 18%+.

About Motovun.

Motovun is one of the most famous and picturesque medieval hilltop towns in Istria, Croatia, dominating the landscape of the Mirna River Valley.

Here are some key facts and things to know about Motovun:

• Location and Appearance: It is perched atop a cone-shaped hill, rising 277 meters above sea level. It is known for its beautiful panoramic views of the surrounding valley, vineyards, and the Motovun Forest. Its silhouette is one of the characteristic symbols of the Istrian interior.

  
  

• History and Architecture: The town has a rich history dating back to ancient times, but the current appearance is largely medieval, with influences from the Venetian rule (from 1278).

  
  

  • It's an exceptionally well-preserved urban complex from the Middle Ages.

    
    

  • A major feature is its double set of defensive walls and fortifications, which you can walk along today for breathtaking views.

    
    

  • The town center features the Parish Church of St. Stephen (17th century) and the adjacent Romanesque-Gothic bell tower (13th century).

    
    

• Gastronomy and Wine: Motovun and the surrounding area are a haven for food and wine lovers.

  
  

  • Truffles: The nearby Motovun Forest is famous for its abundance of highly-prized black and white truffles (Tuber magnatum), making truffle-hunting tours and tasting truffle specialties a top experience.

    
    

  • Wine: The slopes around Motovun are covered in vineyards that produce some of Istria's most famous wines, especially the white Malvasia and the red Teran.

    
    

• Attractions and Activities:

  • Walk the Walls: Walking the ancient defensive walls is a must-do for the spectacular views.

    
    

  • Church of St. Stephen: Visit the church and the bell tower.

    
    

  • Parenzana Trail: The former narrow-gauge railway line has been converted into a popular cycling and hiking trail that passes near the foot of the hill.

    
    

  • Legend of Veli Jože: Motovun is connected to the popular Croatian folktale of Veli Jože, a gentle giant.

    
    

• Former Film Festival: Motovun was historically famous for hosting the Motovun Film Festival every summer, dedicated to independent and non-mainstream cinema. Note: While the festival is still known by this name, it has recently moved its main location to the Gorski Kotar region, with the new brand "Cinehill," although sometimes some smaller related events may still occur in Motovun.

  
  

The rain ambushed us! A lot of rain. All of us took shelter in town, took over the coffee shop. Loaded the bikes on the trailer and got transported for the balance of the ride. Such is life. Would have been too dangerous with the amount of water surging across the road.

Great place to stay. Cheapest vino on our entire adventure! Good too!

No time to explore Plomin, we hunkered down at our accomodation and a most enjoyable afternoon and evening.

Next morning early we rode to our ferry through the mist. Spectacular!!!!

About Plomin.

Plomin is a historic, fortified village in the Istria County of Croatia, perched on a hill above the Plomin Bay on the eastern coast of the Istrian peninsula. It's known for its stunning views of the Kvarner Bay and its rich history, despite being a small settlement with a relatively low population today.

Key Highlights of Plomin

1. History and Cultural Heritage 🏛️

Plomin (historically known as Flanona or Phlanona) is one of the oldest settlements in Istria, with history tracing back to a prehistoric hillfort in the 2nd millennium BC and a significant Roman settlement.

• Plomin Tablet: The most significant historical artifact is the Plomin Tablet (Plominski natpis), which is built into the outer wall of the 11th-century Church of St. George the Elder. The stone relief features a depiction of the pagan god Silvanus with a later added Glagolitic inscription, one of the oldest discovered Glagolitic inscriptions, making it an important monument to the Croatian language and Slav presence.

• Architecture: The old town is characterized by medieval ramparts from the 13th and 14th centuries, narrow, charming streets, and preserved Renaissance and Baroque buildings, including the 15th-century Parish Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary.

2. Scenic Location and Tourism 🌄

The village sits about 80 to 168 meters above sea level, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the Plomin Bay, the Kvarner Bay, and the islands of Cres and Lošinj on a clear day.

• Atmosphere: Plomin is valued for its tranquil atmosphere and authentic historic charm. While much of the old town is sparsely inhabited or has dilapidated houses, this adds to its rustic, timeless appeal.

• Plomin Bay: Down below the hill is Plomin Luka (Plomin Port), which has a beach area and some dining options. The bay was historically important for traffic and trade.

3. Plomin Power Station (TE Plomin) 🏭

Near Plomin Luka is the Plomin Power Station (Termoelektrana Plomin), a significant feature of the local area and the Croatian energy sector.

Despite the industrial presence in the bay, Plomin village itself remains a picturesque destination for travelers interested in history and panoramic views of the Istrian landscape and the Adriatic Sea.

Our first ferry trip with the bikes. Seamless. And a ride awaits across the island.

A.mazing Hotel. Great beach club and a very relaxing swim and Spritz Aperol!

Early morning walk to the Ferry through the old town and along the sea front. Spectacular photo opportunities. The water here is so clear, reminds me of Bougainville.

Long ferry ride to Zadar so no cycling today.

About Mali Losinj.

Mali Lošinj is the main and largest town on the island of Lošinj in Croatia, located in the Primorje-Gorski Kotar County. It is a very popular tourist destination, often referred to as the "Island of Vitality" due to its beneficial climate and fragrant pine forests.

Key Features and Attractions:

• Location and Atmosphere: The town is set in the large Augusta Bay and boasts one of the best natural harbours in the Adriatic. The waterfront promenade is lined with colourful, charming buildings, many of which date back to the 18th and 19th centuries, reflecting its historical affiliation with Venice and Austro-Hungarian rule.

  
  

• History: Originally a small fishing village mentioned as "Malo selo" (small village) in 1398, Mali Lošinj reached its peak in 1868, becoming a major maritime and shipbuilding center, even surpassing Rijeka, Trieste, and Venice in terms of its merchant marine fleet size at the time. Its development later shifted from maritime affairs to tourism, thanks in part to local research that highlighted the salubrious sea air and climate, especially beneficial for respiratory diseases.

  
  

• The Museum of Apoxyomenos: A major cultural attraction is this award-winning museum dedicated to a single artifact: an ancient bronze statue of a Greek athlete, the Apoxyomenos, dating from the 2nd-1st century BC. The statue was discovered in the seabed near Lošinj in 1996. The museum offers an immersive experience chronicling the statue's journey from discovery to restoration.

  
  

• Beaches and Bays: The area is known for numerous beaches, including those in the famous Čikat Bay, which is surrounded by lush pine vegetation and offers three beaches, one of which is sandy. Other popular beaches include Bojčić and those in Artatore Bay.

  
  

• Nature and Wellness: The island's focus on health and vitality is evident in the Lošinj Aromatic Garden, a plantation of over 250 species of island herbs, and the surrounding hiking and cycling trails through fragrant pine forests. The town is also known for being a permanent habitat for a colony of over 200 bottlenose dolphins, with the Blue World Institute in nearby Veli Lošinj dedicated to their research and conservation.

  
  

• Other Sites: Notable sights include the Baroque Parish Church of Our Lady (Birth of the Blessed Virgin Mary), the 18th-century Calvary, the Fritzy Palace (housing the Lošinj Museum's art collections), the waterfront sculpture "Farewell," and the Providenca Thematic Belvedere viewpoint, which offers magnificent panoramic views of the town and archipelago, especially at sunset.

  
  

• Maritime Heritage: The rich maritime history is showcased by the restored cargo sailing ship Nerezinac, which is moored in front of the Apoxyomenos Museum and serves as the Interpretation Centre of Lošinj's Maritime Heritage.

About Zadar.

Zadar is a captivating city located on the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia, known for its rich history, Roman ruins, stunning sunsets, and unique modern art installations.

Here is a breakdown of what makes Zadar a fascinating destination:

Key Highlights & Attractions

Zadar's Old Town, situated on a small peninsula, is pedestrianized and packed with historical and cultural sites.

• Sea Organ (Morske Orgulje): A unique architectural sound art object. Built into the marble steps of the promenade, it uses the movement of the sea waves to push air through a series of underwater pipes, creating melancholic and ever-changing musical tones. It's best experienced at sunset.

• The Greeting to the Sun (Pozdrav Sunca): Located right next to the Sea Organ, this solar-powered art installation consists of a large, circular floor made of multi-layered glass plates. It collects sunlight during the day and, after sunset, comes alive with a dazzling light show.

• Roman Forum: The largest Roman forum on the eastern side of the Adriatic. Built in the 1st century BCE, its ancient ruins, columns, and pavement stones are scattered in the open square, often serving as a casual gathering spot.

• Church of St. Donatus: A striking, circular pre-Romanesque church from the 9th century, built upon the Roman Forum. It is the symbol of the city and is known for its excellent acoustics, often used for classical music performances.

• St. Anastasia Cathedral: The largest church in Dalmatia. You can climb its bell tower for a spectacular panoramic view of the Old Town, the sea, and the nearby islands.

• Land Gate (Kopnena Vrata): An impressive Renaissance masterpiece built in 1543, which was once the main entrance to the city and is a part of the UNESCO-listed Venetian-built city walls.

History

Zadar boasts over 3,000 years of tumultuous and dynamic history, making it one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in Croatia.

• Ancient Roots: Originally an Illyrian settlement (Jadera), it became a Roman municipium in the 1st century BCE, establishing the grid of streets and the Roman Forum.

• Medieval Importance: It served as the capital of the Byzantine theme (province) of Dalmatia in the 7th century. Later, it became a significant center in the Croatian-Hungarian state.

• Venetian Rule: Zadar was a key point of contention and was often at war with Venice before finally being sold to the Republic of Venice in 1409. The Venetian influence is visible in the architecture and the impressive fortifications (city walls).

• 20th Century: Zadar was an Austrian possession for a long period, then part of Italy between the World Wars (named Zara), and was heavily damaged by Allied bombing in World War II. After the war, it became part of Yugoslavia, and today, it is part of the independent Republic of Croatia.

Nature and Day Trips

Zadar is an excellent base for exploring some of Croatia's most beautiful natural landscapes:

• National Parks: It offers easy access to several major National Parks, including:

  • Plitvice Lakes National Park (famous for its terraced lakes and waterfalls).

  • Krka National Park (known for its magnificent waterfalls like Skradinski Buk).

  • Kornati National Park (an archipelago of 89 islands and islets, popular for sailing and boat tours).

  • Paklenica National Park (in the Velebit mountains, ideal for hiking and climbing).

    
    

• Island Hopping: The Zadar Archipelago offers numerous islands like Ugljan and Dugi Otok, perfect for day trips, swimming, and exploring quieter island life.

In summary, Zadar seamlessly blends its ancient past with contemporary creativity, offering visitors a unique mix of historical sightseeing, modern art, and access to stunning natural beauty.

About Sibenik.

Šibenik (pronounced Shi-ben-ik) is a beautiful, historic city in Croatia, located in central Dalmatia where the River Krka flows into the Adriatic Sea.

It's a city rich in history, culture, and natural beauty, known for being:

• The Oldest Native Croatian City on the Adriatic: It was first mentioned in 1066 in a document by King Petar Krešimir IV, giving it the nickname "Krešimir's City."

• Home to Two UNESCO World Heritage Sites: A distinction shared by very few cities globally.

  1. St. James Cathedral (Katedrala Sv. Jakova): A stunning example of 15th- and 16th-century architectural fusion (Gothic and Renaissance), built entirely of stone. Its dome and external row of sculpted human heads are particularly famous.

  2. St. Nicholas Fortress (Tvrđava Sv. Nikole): A unique sea fortress located at the entrance to the St. Anthony Channel, built by the Venetians to defend the city from the sea. It's part of the UNESCO-listed "Venetian Works of Defence."

• The City of Fortresses: Beyond the two UNESCO sites, the city's defense system is highlighted by three other impressive fortresses: St. Michael's Fortress (offering amazing panoramic views and an open-air stage), St. John's Fortress, and Barone Fortress.

• A Gateway to Nature: It's the city closest to two of Croatia's spectacular national parks:

  • Krka National Park: Famous for its stunning waterfalls, especially Skradinski Buk, and riverine landscapes.

  • Kornati National Park: A beautiful archipelago of 89 islands, islets, and reefs, making it a paradise for sailors and nature lovers.

    
    

Key Attractions & Activities:

• Wander the Old Town: Explore the charming, pedestrian-only labyrinth of narrow, stone-paved streets, historic squares (like the main Square of the Republic of Croatia), and Renaissance buildings like the Town Hall.

• Visit the Fortresses: Climb to St. Michael's or Barone for the best views, and take a boat trip to the sea-based St. Nicholas Fortress.

• St. Anthony Channel Promenade: Enjoy a scenic walk or bike ride along the channel to get a close view of St. Nicholas' Fortress and the sea entrance to the city.

• Enjoy Local Cuisine: The region is known for its seafood, olive oil, and the high-quality red wine Babić. The city is also home to the Michelin-starred restaurant, Pelegrini.

About Split.

Split is Croatia's second-largest city and the largest city in the region of Dalmatia, known for its incredible historical depth, vibrant coastal atmosphere, and as a major transport hub for island-hopping.

Here are the key aspects of Split:

1. Roman Heritage and Diocletian's Palace

• Diocletian's Palace: The heart of Split is this UNESCO World Heritage Site, which is not a museum but a living, breathing part of the city. The palace was built by Roman Emperor Diocletian in the late 3rd and early 4th centuries AD as his retirement residence.

  
  

• A City within a Palace: Today, the palace walls, squares (like the central Peristyle), and structures form the core of Split's Old Town. People live, shop, and dine within its ancient boundaries.

  
  

• Key Sites: Within the palace, you'll find the Cathedral of Saint Domnius (originally Diocletian's mausoleum), the Temple of Jupiter, and the well-preserved Diocletian's Cellars (basement chambers).

  
  

2. Coastal Life and Atmosphere

• The Riva Promenade: This is Split's famous, palm-lined waterfront promenade. It's the city's social hub, perfect for a coffee, a stroll, and watching the world go by with views of the harbor and the sea.

  
  

• "Pomalo": Split and the Dalmatian coast are known for a relaxed, slow-paced lifestyle often described by the local word "pomalo", meaning "take it easy" or "slow down."

  
  

3. Attractions and Activities

• Marjan Hill: A forested peninsula and park to the west of the Old Town, offering hiking trails, medieval chapels, and spectacular panoramic views over Split, the sea, and the surrounding islands.

  
  

• Beaches: Split has several popular beaches nearby, such as Bačvice Beach, known for its shallow water and the traditional local game of picigin.

  
  

• Culture & Sport: The city has a rich cultural life with museums (like the Meštrović Gallery for sculpture) and is passionately supportive of its football club, Hajduk Split.

  
  

• "Game of Thrones" Filming: Diocletian's Palace, particularly its cellars, served as a key filming location for the city of Meereen.

  
  

• Klis Fortress: An impressive medieval fortress just outside the city, which also doubled as a Game of Thrones location (Meereen).

  
  

4. Gateway to the Islands

• Split's port is a major hub for ferries and catamarans, making it the perfect base for island-hopping to popular destinations like Hvar, Brač, Šolta, and Vis.

  
  

• Day Trips: It's also a common starting point for day trips to mainland attractions like Krka National Park (famous for its waterfalls) and the UNESCO town of Trogir.

  
  

About Hvar.

Hvar is a very popular and enchanting Croatian island in the Adriatic Sea, part of the Dalmatian archipelago. It's renowned for its vibrant nightlife, beautiful pebble beaches and coves, rich history, and claims to be the sunniest island in Croatia (with over 2,700 hours of sun annually).

Key Highlights

• Hvar Town: The largest settlement and the island's bustling center, known for its elegant Venetian-era architecture, a large central square (St. Stephen's Square), a picturesque harbor, and a lively atmosphere with numerous restaurants, bars, and clubs.

• Beaches and Coves: The island and its surrounding islets boast crystal-clear turquoise waters and numerous idyllic pebble beaches. Dubovica and Pokonji Dol are famous beaches close to Hvar Town.

• The Pakleni Islands (Paklinski Otoci): A stunning archipelago just a short water taxi ride from Hvar Town, offering secluded bays, beautiful swimming spots, and popular beach bars and restaurants (like those on Sveti Klement island).

Must-See Attractions and Activities

• Hvar Fortress (Tvrđava Fortica/Španjola): Climb up to this 16th-century Spanish fortress, perched on a hill above Hvar Town, for breathtaking panoramic views of the town, the harbor, and the Pakleni Islands.

• Stari Grad Plain (UNESCO World Heritage Site): Located near the town of Stari Grad, this agricultural landscape has remained virtually unchanged since the Ancient Greeks first colonized the area and divided the land in the 4th century BC.

• Stari Grad: The oldest town in Croatia (founded as Pharos in 384 BC), offering a quieter, more authentic contrast to Hvar Town with charming, narrow streets and historic sites like the fortified house of poet Petar Hektorović, known as Tvrdalj.

• Hvar Public Theatre and Arsenal: Housed in the Arsenal building, the Hvar Theatre, founded in 1612, is considered one of the first public theatres in Europe.

• Wine and Lavender: Explore the island's interior, known for its vineyards (producing local varieties like Plavac Mali) and lavender fields, especially around the villages of Velo Grablje and Brusje (best seen during the harvest in late June/early July).

• Other Charming Towns: Visit the pleasant towns of Jelsa and Vrboska, often called "Little Venice" due to its narrow, deeply recessed bay.

History Snapshot

Hvar's strategic location has made it important since antiquity.

• Ancient Roots: It was first settled by a Neolithic people (Hvar Culture), then founded as a Greek colony (Pharos) in 384 BC.

• Venetian Rule: Hvar flourished as a major naval base under the Venetian Republic from the 15th to the 18th century, a period that shaped its architecture and culture, giving rise to important Croatian Renaissance writers.

• Tourism Pioneer: Organized tourism began early with the foundation of the Hygienic Society of Hvar in 1868, marking one of the earliest official efforts to promote health tourism in Europe.

About Vela Luka.

Vela Luka is a charming town and municipality located on the western side of the island of Korčula in southern Dalmatia (Dubrovnik-Neretva County).

Here are the key details about Vela Luka:

• Meaning of the Name: Vela Luka translates to "Big Port" or "Great Harbor" in the local Croatian Čakavian dialect, referring to the wide, deep, and protected bay where the town is situated.

• Location: It's the largest town on the island of Korčula and serves as a main port, with car ferry connections to Split and the island of Lastovo.

• Key Attractions and Features:

  • Vela Špilja (Big Cave): One of the most important prehistoric cave dwellings in Europe, located on Pinski Rat hill above the town. Archaeological finds dating back over 20,000 years are displayed in the local Cultural Center.

  • Island Proizd: A small, uninhabited island near Vela Luka, famous for its stunning white pebble beaches, crystal-clear turquoise sea, and unspoiled nature. It's easily reached by taxi boat.

  • Hum Hill: The highest point in the area, featuring the ruins of a 19th-century Austro-Hungarian fortress (Forteca) at its summit, offering magnificent panoramic views of the town, the bay, and the surrounding islands (Hvar, Lastovo).

  • Culture and Arts: The town is known for its rich cultural heritage, including the traditional Klapa (a cappella) singing and local mosaic art—a portion of the main street is decorated with stone mosaics. The Cultural Center houses an archaeological collection, a gallery, and unique works, including two sculptures by Henry Moore.

• Lifestyle: Vela Luka is known for its mild Mediterranean climate, beautiful nature, fishing tradition, and relaxed, authentic Dalmatian atmosphere, making it a safe haven for sailors and a tranquil destination for tourists.

About Korcula.

Korčula (pronounced "Kor-chew-la") is a beautiful Croatian island in the Adriatic Sea, located off the Dalmatian coast, roughly between Split and Dubrovnik.

It's a popular tourist destination known for its stunning walled old town, lush green landscape, and rich history.

Here are some key things about Korčula:

Korčula Town (Stari Grad - Old Town)

• Fortified City: The main town on the island, also named Korčula, is a perfectly preserved medieval fortified city often likened to a "mini-Dubrovnik."

• Architecture: The Old Town is famous for its narrow, curving, stepped streets arranged in a unique herringbone pattern. This design was intentional to allow air circulation but protect against strong winds.

• Key Sites: Must-see spots include the central Romanesque-Gothic Cathedral of St. Mark, and the alleged Birth House of Marco Polo (though this is a subject of historical debate, it's a strong local tradition). You can climb the bell tower for fantastic panoramic views.

• Moreška Sword Dance: The town is famous for its traditional, armored Moreška sword dance, a dramatic performance with roots in the medieval period, often performed for visitors.

The Island

• "The Emerald Isle": Korčula is one of the most densely wooded islands in the Adriatic, covered in rich Mediterranean flora, including extensive pine forests, which led the Ancient Greeks to name it Melaina Korkyra (Black Korčula).

• Wine and Olive Oil: The island is a major agricultural hub, especially famous for its local wines like the dry white varieties Grk (grown only in Lumbarda) and Pošip, as well as excellent local olive oil.

• Settlements: Besides Korčula Town, other major settlements include Vela Luka (a large town on the western end, famous for the prehistoric cave Vela Spila), and Lumbarda (known for its sandy beaches—a rarity in Croatia—and Grk wine).

• Beaches: While most beaches are pebble or rocky, which leads to incredibly clear water, sandy options like Vela Pržina and Bilin Žal can be found in Lumbarda. The island also has many secluded bays and coves.

Things to Do

• Wander the Old Town: Get lost in the medieval streets and admire the Venetian-era architecture.

• Wine Tasting: Visit family-run wineries, particularly in Lumbarda, Smokvica, and Čara, to sample the unique local varietals.

• Day Trips: Take a water taxi to the nearby islands of the Škoji Archipelago, such as Badija (with a Franciscan monastery) or Vrnik.

• Active Tourism: The island offers great opportunities for cycling, walking, and kayaking, especially around the archipelago.

We transferred into Dubrovnik and arrived at the magnificent Rixos Hotel. A final dinner at the Bota Šare Oyster & Sushi Bar near the Buza Gate. Sensational. Theresa and I visited another 3 times during our extended stay.

Time to pack up the bikes. Bid farewell to new friends.

Theresa and I headed to our AirBnB literally around the corner opposite the Rixos Hotel. Our exploration of Dubrovnik commenced in earnest. We invested in a 7 day pass which got us into lots of the attractions. And when Lexy arrived we bought another 2 day pass.

Lots to discover here. Wandering the laneways revealed hidden treasures. So many photos. So many CATS!!!! So many very good restaurants.

And some videos.

Lexy joined us on the 16th for the weekend. What a great time we had!!!

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About Dubrovnik.

Dubrovnik, often called the "Pearl of the Adriatic," is one of the world's most stunning and historically significant fortified cities. Located in the south of Dalmatia, Croatia, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site famous for its magnificent medieval architecture and city walls.

Here is a detailed look at the city:

1. The Old City and its History

• A Maritime Republic: Historically known as Ragusa, Dubrovnik was a powerful maritime city-state that rivaled Venice in trade and diplomacy from the 13th to the 19th centuries. Its prosperity was built on maritime commerce, and its skillful diplomacy allowed it to maintain its independence for centuries by maneuvering between great powers.

  
  

• The Architecture: The Old City is a beautifully preserved blend of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles.

  
  

  • The main street, the Stradun (or Placa), is a gleaming, wide thoroughfare paved with limestone.

    
    

  • Notable buildings include the Rector's Palace (the seat of the government), the Sponza Palace, the Dubrovnik Cathedral, and the Onofrio's Fountain.

    
    

• Historical Resilience: The city has endured major catastrophes:

  
  

  • A devastating earthquake in 1667 destroyed much of the city, which was subsequently rebuilt in the elegant Baroque style.

    
    

  • It suffered significant damage from shelling during the Croatian War of Independence in the early 1990s, but it has since been meticulously restored through a UNESCO-coordinated program.

    
    

2. Must-See Attractions

The City Walls (Dubrovačke zidine)

• The Walls: These massive stone fortifications, built between the 13th and 17th centuries, are the city's most iconic feature. They run for approximately 1,940 meters (6,365 feet) and are up to 25 meters (80 feet) high in some places.

  
  

• The Walk: Walking along the top of the walls is the single best activity in Dubrovnik, offering breathtaking, panoramic views of the terracotta-tiled roofs of the Old City, the surrounding azure Adriatic Sea, and the nearby island of Lokrum.

• Key Forts: The walls connect several formidable fortresses, including the huge, round Minčeta Tower (the highest point) and Fort Bokar.

  
  

Mount Srđ and the Cable Car

• Panoramic View: For the ultimate view of the entire Old City, the sea, and the Elaphiti Islands, take the Dubrovnik Cable Car up to the top of Mount Srđ.

  
  

• Top of the Mountain: At the summit, you'll find the Panorama Restaurant & Bar and the Museum of the Croatian War of Independence, which provides a historical context of the 1990s siege.

  
  

Other Key Landmarks

• Fort Lovrijenac (St. Lawrence Fortress): Often called "Dubrovnik's Gibraltar," this imposing fortress sits atop a 37-meter-high cliff just outside the western city walls.

  
  

• Lokrum Island: A quick 15-minute ferry ride from the Old Port, this uninhabited nature reserve offers tranquil botanical gardens, hidden swimming spots, and walking trails.

  
  

3. Culture and Pop Culture

• Game of Thrones' "King's Landing": Dubrovnik is world-famous for being the primary filming location for King's Landing, the capital of the Seven Kingdoms in the HBO series Game of Thrones. Fans can recognize numerous spots:

  
  

  • Fort Lovrijenac doubled as the Red Keep.

    
    

  • The walls were used for many exterior shots of the capital.

  • The famous Jesuit Staircase was the setting for Cersei Lannister's "Walk of Shame."

    
    

• Dubrovnik Summer Festival: A major cultural event held annually in July and August, featuring open-air performances of music, theater, opera, and dance throughout the city.